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March 3, 2012

Kopi Tiam, Panmure... sedap!

Hungry after a morning of vigorous climbing at Extreme Edge, Panmure, we drove to Queen's Road. It's a road in a slightly rough neighbourhood.. but gosh! the food to be had here is really really good. If you can look past the strip mall, discount stores and un-glamorous surrounds, you're in for a treat.

We knew that there were 3 Malaysian restaurants / cafes here and had already tried the famous Sri Puteri so we walked along in the blustery autumnal winds and found the other 2 side by side. Kopi Tiam (literally translated from Malay: coffee shop) with clear shop windows and a menu stuck on the door and Blossom Court - looking slightly more upmarket with tinted windows and no menu. Both looked like there were people inside.. hmm. How does one make a choice?

Kopi Tiam

After a moment's hesitation, Kopi Tiam won, as we quickly perused its menu and decided all the food offered sounded yum.

Once inside, you could be excused if you thought you were back in a typical little coffee shop in some backwater town in Malaysia. Small cafe, with 7 tables, all neatly covered with PVC over lacy tablecloth. On the walls, pictures Kuala Lumpur and a whiteboard with "today's specials". In the background, the radio chattering away in Cantonese (some talk show, as far as I could decipher). It was 1pm and there was a table tucking into curry chicken, fried kway teow (flat rice noodles) and other delicious smelling things I could not see without being impolite!

As we looked over the menu, a steady stream of regulars came in, ordered take-aways, exchanged banter and left. Service was quick, polite and efficient. Steaming pot of chinese tea arrived on the table with our menu. We ordered Assam Laksa and Marmite chicken with fried egg on steamed rice.

Marmite. Don't wrinkle up your nose! I know people either love it or hate it (especially if you have not grown up eating it). A sticky, savoury brown, nearly black paste made from yeast extract. I love it on buttery toast or with cheese... but we digress. Alone, the taste can be overpowering for some, but as an ingredient, it adds an extra dimension or "umami". Umami is a term derived from Japanese, which describes an added savoury taste, mouth-feel attributed to glutamate. My chicken came stirfried with onions, capsicums, (still nice and crunchy), all coated in a delicious black sweet, savoury sauce. Just the thing to eat with plain steamed jasmine rice. To top it off, a perfectly fried egg, whites slightly crunchy, but yolk still runny... ooooo.

Marmite chicken

The Assam Laksa (rice noodles in a sour, spicy fish soup) was a generous portion. The soup made from fish stock was very tasty, had plenty of flaked fish and enough assam (assam is also know as tamarind and the flesh of the fruit is often used in SE Asian cooking to impart a tangy sour dimension to dishes) to make it mouth-wateringly piquant. Just enough chilli to add heat, but not too much, and garnished with raw onion slices, julienned cucumber and fresh pineapple - it hit the spot. If only there was a spoonful of "hay ko" (fermented prawn paste) it would have been perfect!

We started with our respective dishes and swopped halfway in true greedy fashion - so that we had a chance to taste both. To add to our enjoyment, we asked for a little side plate of sambal belachan. Very well done it was, and this one had heat! Phew! Pedas! (hot).

Assam Laksa




Bill came to just over $22. Good food, unpretentious surroundings, friendly service. We'll definitely be back.

Kopi Tiam, 139 Queens Road, Panmure, Auckland.

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